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‘So I started talking about that and the person I was photographing started laughing and forgot about themselves. I told someone the other day, “Look, when I turn my head my cheek follows a second later.” The magic comes when a sitter is not self-conscious.They thought I was more worried about myself, so they let go. If you see someone arrive at a party and they are self-conscious, unable to make eye contact, that will not be the person you are attracted to.‘When I photographed Diana, the first thought was, do I want to be the voyeur who respectfully photographs the princess in her tiara, or do I sit her next to me and do her like she is my mate?’ We know the answer, and there is something quite flirtatious about that shoot. ‘She wanted to be liked but to me the word flirt contains a sexual energy so I don’t think it was that. Anna Wintour [editor of American Vogue] says I flirt with everyone, young, old, male, female.
‘These people are immediately recognisable and they like to stay in that persona. Afterwards I had dinner with her and I couldn’t find the real Gwyneth because I couldn’t stop thinking of her in the play.’ His photographs of the actress are among his most memorable, with her backlit and looking ghostly.Mario Testino: 'When I photographed Diana, the first thought was, do I want to be the voyeur who respectfully photographs the princess in her tiara, or do I sit her next to me and do her like she is my mate? He doesn’t move his arms as he walks and, thanks to a long overcoat, it looks as if he is not moving his legs either. Over all, the impression he gives is of being a human log floating calmly on a rippling social pond.As Mario Testino moves through the café, customers and waiters alike step out of his way. His head seems pretty still, too, although this may be related to the black scarf he wears like a neck brace, fussily arranged so that each end is draped over a shoulder. He also has a certain style, as you would expect from the man who helped discover Kate Moss and Gisele, who became the favourite photographer not only of Diana, Princess of Wales, but also Gwyneth Paltrow and Madonna, and who persuaded Sir Elton John to get on all fours for a Vogue shoot, so that Elizabeth Hurley could ride on his back.I don’t think it was so much that Diana wanted me to like her, she just wanted me to make her look good.’ At first the Princess sat with her knees together and her hands in her lap.Testino persuaded her to kick off her shoes, take off her jewellery and stretch out on a sofa. She told me that she trusted me completely, so we straightened her hair and gave her more natural make up. I caught her in a moment when she had freed herself from a lot of burdens.’ Was he aware at the time of having taken a special set of photographs?