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Still, I use them sparingly, unwilling to rob the dish of its festive specialness.

At Thanksgiving the little barberries shine in all their glory, nestled like rubies in a platter of rice, reminding us that while my parents are now gone, zereshk polow serves as their stand-in at our Thanksgiving family table.

My cousins, newly arrived from Iran, would tentatively try the stuffing before politely edging it to the side of their plates.

My father's West Indian relatives, louder and more boisterous, would boldly announce their distaste for the bready side dish, with pronouncements of "yech! " So at our family table, a Persian layered rice called features tart barberries cooked with onions, orange peel, and almonds in a saffron-rose sauce.

Polows are layered rice dishes that have ancient origins.

The skillful cook is able to produce it in such a way that the ingredients are not sticky or dry.

Rice won't stick if there's a little oil on th...

Garnished with deeply yellow saffron rice, the platter resembled the intricate Persian rugs that adorned our house.Maybe it was because my parents defaulted to the simple out-of-the-box stuffing that surely tasted bland and gummy to their spice-accustomed palates, or maybe it was because bread in all its forms simply isn't the highlight of either culture's cuisine.That place of pride is owned almost entirely by rice.Once safely within my mother's grasp, they'd be tucked into the back of the refrigerator and sparingly doled out for special-occasion dinners like Christmas, Easter, graduations, and, most of all, Thanksgiving.In keeping with the plentifulness of the holiday, it was on Thanksgiving that the zereshk was most abundant.

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To get the tahdig on top, use a serving platter and flip the rice on to it.

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